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Hi, I have a large walk in shower that I wanted to recaulk. Upon removing the old cauld, discovered that the previous owner basically filled a 1 inch deep and 1/2 inch in height gap between floor and wall with A LOT of caulk. I do not think this is the right thing to do. I was wondering if there was another solution or substance I can put in gap first before reapplying the caulk.
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I am going to attempt to put pics here also. Any help or advice great appreciated. I know the best solution is probably redo floor, but would rather not bc of expence. Hi, I have a large walk in shower that I wanted to recaulk. Upon removing the old cauld, discovered that the previous owner basically filled a 1 inch deep and 1/2 inch in height gap between floor and wall with A LOT of caulk.
I do not think this is the right thing to do. I was wondering if there was another solution or substance I can put in gap first before reapplying the caulk. I am going to attempt to put pics here also. Any help or advice great appreciated. I know the best solution is probably redo floor, but would rather not bc of expence.
Hello boden, Another option would be to fill the gap with grout. However due to different rate walls and floors expand grout will eventually crack again leaving you with the new hairline crack. Solution would be to partially fill the gap, about a half way with grout, and to finish of (read seal) remaining with. You are probably thinking now; What? Silicone again!? Silicone caulk like any other material has its own limitations. Almost every single silicone caulk out there it is limited to the maximum joint depth and width of ¼” to ½“an inch.
Exceeding these limits reduces its adhesion and elasticity. Adhesion is the key word, you will almost never run in to a silicone caulk that’s deteriorating, it’s the adhesion to the material that failed not caulk. Once the bond (seal) is lost caulk will simply separate from the surface leaving room for water to penetrate. That’s where mold and mildew problem starts.
Like already said my recommendation would be to fill the gap half way,preferably with sanded grout, wait for about 24hrs for grout to set and then seal the other half with commercial grade silicone caulk. Grout will also provide new clean substrate for silicone to adhere to. Contrary to ordinary silicone commercial grade silicone caulk has much higher properties and it is limited to the ½ “inch dept and 1” width. See attached pdf; Something else I wanted to mention its presence of the shower liner.
I would take an opportunity now and while gap it’s still there and check to see if there is shower liner installed. Hope this helps George. Hello bodenAnother option would be to fill the gap with grout. However due to different rate walls and floors expand grout will eventually crack again leaving you with the new hairline crack. Solution would be to partially fill the gap, about a half way with grout, and to finish of (read seal) remaining with commercial grade 100% silicone caulk. You are probably thinking now; What? Silicone again!?
Silicone caulk like any other material has its own limitations. Almost every single silicone caulk out there it is limited to the maximum joint depth and width of ¼” to ½“an inch. Exceeding these limits reduces its adhesion and elasticity. Adhesion is the key word, you will almost never run in to a silicone caulk that’s deteriorating, it’s the adhesion to the material that failed not caulk. Once the bond (seal) is lost caulk will simply separate from the surface leaving room for water to penetrate.
That’s where mold and mildew problem starts. Like already said my recommendation would be to fill the gap half way,preferably with sanded grout, wait for about 24hrs for grout to set and then seal the other half with commercial grade silicone caulk. Grout will also provide new clean substrate for silicone to adhere to. Contrary to ordinary silicone commercial grade silicone caulk has much higher properties and it is limited to the ½ “inch dept and 1” width. See attached pdf; Something else I wanted to mention its presence of the shower liner. I would take an opportunity now and while gap it’s still there and check to see if there is shower liner installed. Hope this helps George.
SteelToes, I too was concerned with the state of the pan liner. Obviously, some construction mistakes were made with the tiling. Hopefully, the pan liner was done properly or there could be very expensive water damage consequences down the road. Unfortunately, such damage often does not become noticeable until it is quite advanced, requiring extensive re-building of the shower and the structural members holding its weight. If the underside is at all visible, such as from a crawl space, I would go down there and look for signs of water damage.
SteelToes, I too was concerned with the state of the pan liner. Obviously, some construction mistakes were made with the tiling. Hopefully, the pan liner was done properly or there could be very expensive water damage consequences down the road. Unfortunately, such damage often does not become noticeable until it is quite advanced, requiring extensive re-building of the shower and the structural members holding its weight. If the underside is at all visible, such as from a crawl space, I would go down there and look for signs of water damage.
OrdjenYou're on the right track with settling. In his first post OP said that this is a large walk in shower which makes me think that floor (joists) were probably not initially designed (sized) to handle the weight of the shower pan resulting in deflection. I doubt there is a problem with the shower liner - he would notice it by now. BodenWhat is your floor made of? I-joists or regular lumber and what is the spacing and size of the joists? George. Pasting discussions from users reply in other topic: Hi George, I did also consider that the pan may not be there or installed correctly. But I cannot see it really without some kind of mini camera:-).
When you tap the material that ruler hits behind the wall it does make a rubbery sound and seems to be a little flexible when pushed on. It does NOT seem like it is dry wall. I know the 'right' solution would be take it up, see what is under it and redo floor.
BUT under the shower is the outside and the garage. So a leak would not ruin a place that is a big problem. Do you have a suggestion for a tool to get the grout into the gap? HOuse was built in 2003.
So I don't think it was settling. I think the construction of shower originally was problem. Boden Hey there boden, George is out for the day, but he'll be back in soon to follow up on this one; he's awesome with the structural and building side of the job! Till then I'll try and help address ywhat I can = ) As far as a tool to help spread the grout, your average isn't going to help much here. You may want to consider a instead, as this will help you apply it with a bit more precision and will work much better for your application. Just make sure that before you attempt to apply your caulking sealant; that your grout is 100% dry or else it will have a difficult time adhering to the surface.
Depending on the area and moisture conditions, grout may take up to 24 hours to fully cure as mentioned above. Like George also mentioned though, given the divergent settling rates of the wall and floor, the grout can be prone to cracking. While the grout is certainly a viable option, you could also look into using a and caulking over that as well.
This is what I use for tiling jobs where there are large gaps much like this, and a giant glob of silicone just won't cut it. I stuff the void with the backer rod and then silicone over this. Not only does the backer rod help insulate the void, but it also helps keep the caulking in the desirable hourglass shape. Hopefully with everyone here on board for this project, we'll manage to come up with a great solution for you!. Pasting discussions from users reply in other topic: Hi George, I did also consider that the pan may not be there or installed correctly. But I cannot see it really without some kind of mini camera:-).
When you tap the material that ruler hits behind the wall it does make a rubbery sound and seems to be a little flexible when pushed on. It does NOT seem like it is dry wall. I know the 'right' solution would be take it up, see what is under it and redo floor. BUT under the shower is the outside and the garage. So a leak would not ruin a place that is a big problem. Do you have a suggestion for a tool to get the grout into the gap?
HOuse was built in 2003. So I don't think it was settling. I think the construction of shower originally was problem. Boden Hey there bodenGeorge is out for the day, but he'll be back in soon to follow up on this one; he's awesome with the structural and building side of the job! Till then I'll try and help address ywhat I can = ) As far as a tool to help spread the grout, your average grout float isn't going to help much here. You may want to consider a grout bag instead, as this will help you apply it with a bit more precision and will work much better for your application.
Just make sure that before you attempt to apply your caulking sealant; that your grout is 100% dry or else it will have a difficult time adhering to the surface. Depending on the area and moisture conditions, grout may take up to 24 hours to fully cure as mentioned above. Like George also mentioned though, given the divergent settling rates of the wall and floor, the grout can be prone to cracking. While the grout is certainly a viable option, you could also look into using a backer rod and caulking over that as well.
This is what I use for tiling jobs where there are large gaps much like this, and a giant glob of silicone just won't cut it. I stuff the void with the backer rod and then silicone over this.
Not only does the backer rod help insulate the void, but it also helps keep the caulking in the desirable hourglass shape. Hopefully with everyone here on board for this project, we'll manage to come up with a great solution for you!. Hi boden, What you seek is called or Backer Rod. This 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch foam bead is stuffed into the gap and provides a stop-point when caulking.
This prevents the practice that you discovered. Filling a gap with one or more inches of caulk. You'll select the one which fills the gap and creates a firm backing for your new caulk.
And, make certain you select Silicone rubber caulk; a much better water barrier than water-based caulk. NOTE: Check the 'Clean Up' line on your caulk tube. If it says 'Water' then you should switch it for Silicone rubber caulk. Hi boden,What you seek is called Caulk Saver or Backer Rod.This 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch foam bead is stuffed into the gap and provides a stop-point when caulking.This prevents the practice that you discovered. Filling a gap with one or more inches of caulk.You'll select the one which fills the gap and creates a firm backing for your new caulk.And, make certain you select Silicone rubber caulk; a much better water barrier than water-based caulk.NOTE:Check the 'Clean Up' line on your caulk tube.If it says 'Water' then you should switch it for Silicone rubber caulk.
Hey there, so I'll try to make this long story short: 1. Sister's Macbook Pro Hard Drive broke (Verified by Apple Employee) and we need the files inside of her Hard Drive. Apple Employee suggested that we get someone else to do it, or we buy a 2.5' Hard Drive External Enclosure and manually extract it ourselves.
We bought it and Windows is not automatically assigning a Drive Letter probably because it's a Formatted Mac Hard Drive. I can't manually set a drive letter (The Mac Hard Drive is Disk 1). I have tried multiple programs which are: -Paragon HFS+ (Doesn't automatically create a drive letter to This PC) -HFS Explorer (Partition 1 and 2 both display this error message: Detected type is (UNKNOWN), but Partition 3 shows all data inside which is only Mac Software files.Macdrive (Just straight up doesn't work) 6. I have also tried using a different computer.
Can anyone please help me? I'm not sure what to do. Thank you for putting in the time to read all this.